On the Road: Alameda Avenue, Burbank, California

Click on Thumbnail for MapNote: First published on Blogger on May 3, 2007

Unfolding the Map

Okay, I'm going to admit something here. I'm just guessing on this one. I did a Google and a Google Earth search for Alameda Avenue, and the only one that came up was in Burbank. So, I don't really know whether Sal went here or not, or if Alameda Avenue even exists. But, it's plausible, perhaps, even though Burbank doesn't quite fit the image. So I'm just going with it and I hope you'll excuse my leap. If you want to see where we are on the map, just click the image at left. Enjoy today's posting!

Book Quote

"'Man,I'm going to get my clothes from Sis and we'll hitchhike to New York,' said Terry. 'Come on, man. Let's do it. If you can't boogie I know I'll show you how.' That last part was a song of hers she kept singing. We hurried to her sister's house in the sliverous Mexican shacks somewhere beyond Alameda Avenue. I waited in a dark alley behind Mexican kitchens because her sister wasn't supposed to see me. Dogs ran by. There were little lamps illuminating the little rat alleys. I could hear Terry and her sister arguing in the soft, warm night. I was ready for anything."

On the Road, Chapter 13

Alameda Avenue, Burbank, California

As stated above, I don't know if this is the general area where Terry's sister lived or not. It seems plausible, simply because the only other Alameda Avenue I could find is much farther away, in Azusa, California, and it is only a small street. Sal says, vaguely, "somewhere beyond Alameda Avenue." That could mean anything.

It seems like almost a spot decision, the way it is presented in the book, that Terry and Sal will hitchhike to New York. Sal has already entertained her with stories of New York, and being from Bakersfield and already heading for a big city when Sal met her, it makes some sense for Terry to want to see something even bigger and perhaps better herself in the wealth of opportunities there. This is also somewhat notable, because it is the first time in this journey that Sal really thinks about heading back to New York. Many times he has had moments of crisis, notably at the Bear Mountain Bridge and in Iowa and Nebraska, but he manages to keep traveling toward his goal of Denver and then San Francisco. Now, however, he doesn't say a word, just follows Terry's lead. Perhaps he is in love? Or maybe he's tired of the road? Or a little of both?

I find the use of "sliverous" to describe the dwellings of the Mexican families interesting. I can't decide whether he means that they are narrow, or they are made of material that would give one slivers. Either way seems to work...I can imagine narrow shacks jammed together in a kind of "barrio." I can also imagine that they are made of rough hewn planks, and whatever else could be salvaged. One only need to visit a colonia along the Texas-US, New Mexico-US, Arizona-US or California-US border to get a sense of what I mean. A colonia is usually a settlement with houses made from whatever can be scrounged -- wood, tin roofing, plastic, canvas, in short everything. They often have no running water, and perhaps no electricity. Obviously Terry's sister's neighborhood had some electricity because of the lamps in the narrow "rat" alleys. To Jack, such neighborhoods may have seemed dangerous and exciting, and it is notable that Sal must hide because propriety dictates that Terry's sister not know about him. Had he been seen, who knows what might happen.

Was this place in or near Burbank? Probably not, since Burbank has traditionally been an upper-middle class area. But it could very well have been beyond Burbank, which must have seemed like the hinterlands in the late 1940s; a dark, less populated area beyond the city lights that the well-to-do and comfortable avoided, but which provided shelter and life to the down and out on the fringes of society.

If you want to learn more about Burbank or colonias

City of Burbank
Colonia definitions (Texas)
History of Burbank
Wikipedia: Burbank
Wikipedia: Colonia

Next up: Central Avenue, Los Angeles, California

On the Road: Downtown Los Angeles

Click on Thumbnail for MapNote: First published on Blogger on May 2, 2007

Unfolding the Map

Sal and Terry are still trying to drum up some money and a way to stay in LA. Join them in the cafeteria line below. If you want to see where we are, click the map!

Book Quote

"Terry and I ate in a cafeteria downtown which was decorated to look like a grotto, with metal tits spurting everywhere and great impersonal stone buttockses belonging to deities and soapy Neptune. People ate lugubrious meals around the waterfalls, their faces green with marine sorrow. All the cops in LA looked like handsome gigolos; obviously they'd come to LA to make the movies. Everybody had come to make the movies, even me."

On the Road, Chapter 13

Downtown Los Angeles, California

"Lugubrious meals...faces green with marine sorrow." Now that's an interesting line Sal utters. I had to look up lugubrious -- it's one of those words that I had a feeling for but no real way to describe it. It means mournful, dismal or gloomy. So, everyone in LA appears to Sal to be full of gloom.

The contrasts made are pretty fascinating. LA is, and continues to be, one of the most sunshine-filled cities of the country. It's full of "happy" things, including our movie, television and music industries, Disneyland (the happiest place on earth), beautiful beaches and beautiful people, and yet they eat lugubrious meals at downtown cafeterias. I find this interesting because it so jars with the common perceptions we have of LA. Even today, we associate the stars with the good life, fun times, lives of leisure and wish we had that too. We know there is an underbelly of sadness because all the tabloids tell us so. But we still wish we had it, because we know we could do better with it. As Sal says, even the cops came to LA to be in the movies, and so did he, seeking the good life.

Clifton's Cafeteria Pacific Seas in the 1950sAnother fascinating thing that he mentions is eating in a cafeteria. How long has it been since you ate at a cafeteria? I mean a real cafeteria with a lunch line. Since you were in school, right? Perhaps you might have eaten in a cafeteria associated with your work. Perhaps. Most likely, you eat out like most other Americans - fast food. But public cafeterias used to be the fast food of Jack's day. Cheap, efficient and probably better quality food than the latest McMeal. When I lived in Texas, Luby's was the cafeteria style restaurant that still operated there, and was very popular on weekend breakfast outings. Here in New Mexico, we have a Furr's or two which provides cafeteria-style dining ambience, though I don't imagine that they are decorated as Sal describes that LA cafeteria. If any cafeterias are decorated as such, I would like to go there!

If you want to know more about downtown Los Angeles or cafeteria dining

Blogdowntown (Eric Richardson's blog of downtown LA life)
Clifton's Cafeteria (Perhaps Kerouac/Sal ate here?)
Downtown Los Angeles Walking Tour
Los Angeles Downtown News
Wikipedia: Cafeteria
Wikipedia: Downtown Los Angeles
Yesterday LA: Downtown

Next up: Alameda Avenue, Burbank, California

On the Road: Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, California

Click on Thumbnail for MapNote: First published on Blogger on May 1, 2007

Unfolding the Map

Sal is still hanging around the stars in Hollywood. He even catches a glimpse of one or two. But, Hollywood's siren song doesn't bring him much fame, fortune, or even food money. Click on the map for the latest in our LA journey.

Book Quote

"Hollywood Boulevard was a great, screaming frenzy of cars; there were minor accidents at least once a minute; everybody was rushing off toward the farthest palm -- and beyond that was the desert and nothingness. Hollywood Sams stood in front of swank restaurants, arguing exactly the same way Broadway Sams argue at Jacob's Beach, New York, only here they wore light-weight suits and their talk was cornier. Tall, cadaverous preachers shuddered by. Fat screaming women ran across the boulevard to get in line for the quiz shows. I saw Jerry Colonna buying a car at Buick Motors; he was inside the vast plate-glass window, fingering his mustachio."

On the Road, Chapter 13

Hollywood Boulevard, Hollywood, California

Two or three things stand out to me in Sal's quote. First, anyone who has been to Los Angeles knows that nowhere in the general vicinity of LA can you find desert and nothingness beyond the farthest palm. Beyond the farthest palm is more city or suburb, more concrete roadways and whatever housing fits in the area. If indeed this is what Sal sees, then 1940s era LA must have been more compact, and perhaps even some of the various communities in the LA area were separated by open space at the time. That certainly isn't the case today. When you speak of the LA area now, you speak of one unbroken stretch of city where communities bleed into one another and people pass by on the freeways barely noticing them.

Second, I notice that Sal makes a comparison between LA and New York City as he talks about the "Hollywood Sams" arguing. Who exactly they are and what exactly they argue about I'm not sure -- I'm guessing that they are local know-it-alls and their arguments have something to do with the quality of entertainment, the latest stars, and the opportunities available in the movie business. However, his allusions are more than just this. Hollywood Boulevard is a screaming frenzy of cars, much like I imagine Broadway was and still is. Even in the fantasyland of the west coast, there are certain similarities between cities that just don't go away. This includes all the characters that Sal sees. The preachers, the fat ladies running to the quiz shows, the Hollywood Sams, and even Jerry Colonna with a huge mustachio. Who is Jerry Colonna? It is interesting that Jack included him in this scene. He was a zany Italian-American, mustached comedian who appeared many times with Bob Hope and was known for playing nit-witted characters, according to Wikipedia. The interesting thing about his inclusion in this scene is the ironic juxtaposition -- Jerry Colonna is doing something mundane and non-zany, buying a car at Buick, while the zaniness and craziness and all the strange characters are the rest of America roaming around outside the car dealership.

This leads to an interesting question to ponder. Is America that crazy, that weird, that strange that they can make professional actors whose job is to play strange characters seem remarkably tame? Are actors really looking at us and saying "Now THAT's strange -- I'll use it for my next performance!" Are places like Hollywood just manifestations of the real strangeness and idiocy that we barely hold in? Did Jack really see through all this?

Am I just play-acting the English major, aping what I see true literary critics doing, but not realizing that I too am part of the general strangeness and idiocy that is America?

By the way, Hollywood Boulevard is the home of the "Walk of Fame" that you hear about every so often when some actor gets his or her star set into the concrete.

If you want to know more about Hollywood Boulevard, the Walk of Fame or Jerry Colonna

Hollywood Boulevard - The Virtual Tour
Hollywood Chamber of Commerce
Hollywood Walk of Fame
IMDB: Jerry Colonna
Seeing-stars.com: Hollywood Boulevard
Wikipedia: Hollywood Walk of Fame
Wikipedia: Jerry Colonna

Next up: Downtown Los Angeles

On the Road: Sunset & Vine, Los Angeles, California

Click on Thumbnail for MapNote: First published on Blogger on April 20, 2007

Unfolding the Map

Into the midst of the teeming city Sal finds himself with his new girlfriend Terry. Today, Hollywood. Sal tries to get a job at Schwab's drugstore (which he locates at Sunset and Vine but which is actually a block away at Selma and Vine). What can be interpolated and extrapolated from Sal's words? Read on and find out, Littourati! Click the map for the latest update.

Book Quote

"We went to Hollywood to try to work in the drugstore at Sunset and Vine. Now there was a corner! Great families off jalopies from the hinterlands stood around the sidewalk gaping for sight of some movie star, and the movie star never showed up. When a limousine passed they rushed eagerly to the curb and ducked to look: some character in dark glasses sat inside with a bejeweled blonde. 'Don Ameche! Don Ameche!' 'No, George Murphy! George Murphy!' They milled around, looking at one another. Handsome queer boys who had come to Hollywood to be cowboys walked around, wetting their eyebrows with hincty fingertip. The most beautiful little gone gals in the world cut by in slacks; they came to be starlets; they ended up in drive-ins."

On the Road: Chapter 13

Sunset and Vine, Hollywood, California

Hollywood! Movie capital of the world (if you don't count Bollywood in India, which actually has made more films than Hollywood for years). Is it any wonder that Sal and Terri try to find a job here?

Hollywood enters our collective fantasies. Who hasn't wanted to be a star, or be close to the stars -- at least on a first name basis with one so that we can be invited to the parties. Nowadays we long for a glimpse of Paris Hilton, Lindsay Lohan, Leo, Bennifer, even though we publicly announce our lack of interest, or disapproval of their work, their ways and their life. If Paris Hilton were to walk into a coffee shop or restaurant that I happened to be in, I would probably be secretly thrilled for a moment, even as later I would be dismissing the effect to people I know. As Sal shows, the same desires were present in the 1940s, substituting the names of the day. Don Ameche! Was he a big star before that movie he made in the 80s about the old people and the alien cocoons? (Yes, he was!)

But, like Sal suggests, for every star Hollywood has many wanna-be stars working crappy jobs and trying to make it. It's not all a happy ending out there where American Idol finalists with some talent get movie and recording contracts. The entertainment industry is a cold mistress. Two of my high school companions went to L.A. in search of careers, one in stage and one in music. They tried it for years, struggling to find work even while getting a chance to hobnob with the big names once in a while. One is back in my hometown, and has become a local celebrity of sorts as a singer-songwriter, but certainly does not have the fame that he probably originally traveled to L.A. to find.

The other works at a financial advising company, moved away from L.A. in search of more affordable housing, and seems to have left the theater behind. I find this a bit sad, as he was such a good performer and he loved the theater. He probably could have made it in a different place where he didn't face so much competition. But L.A. is the gold standard, and if you can't make it there...

If you want to know more about Sunset and Vine, Schwab's drugstore, Don Ameche, George Murphy or Hollywood in general

Sunset Boulevard (Classic movie line: I'm ready for my close-up, Mr. DeMille.)
The Sunset Strip
Hollywood and Vicinity (in yesterdayla.com)
IMDB: Don Ameche
IMDB: George Murphy
Lana Turner, allegedly discovered at Schwab's
New York Time: Closing of Schwab's
Wikipedia: Don Ameche
Wikipedia: George Murphy
Wikipedia: Sunset Boulevard

Next up: Hollywood Boulevard, Hollywood, California

On the Road: South Main, Los Angeles, California

Click on Thumbnail for MapNote: First published on Blogger on April 29, 2007

Unfolding the Map

We've hit L.A., and will be moving in and around this large city for the next few posts. It is the city of lights and dreams for some, but does Sal get fame and fortune? Read on and see. Click on the map to see where we are presently.

Book Quote

"We got off the bus at Main Street, which was no different from where you get off a bus in Kansas City or Chicago or Boston -- red brick, dirty, characters drifting by, trolleys grating in the hopeless dawn, the whorey smell of a city....

"South Main Street, where Terry and I took strolls with hot dogs, was a fantastic carnival of lights and wildness. Booted cops frisked people on practically every corner. The beatest characters of the country swarmed on the sidewalks -- all of it under those soft Southern California stars that are lost in the brown halo of the huge desert encampment LA really is. You could smell tea, weed, I mean marijuana, floating in the air, together with the chili beans and beer. That grand wild sound of bop floated from beer parlors; it mixed medleys with every kind of cowboy and boogie-woogie in the American night. Everybody looked like Hassel. Wild Negroes with bop caps and goatees came laughing by; then long-haired broken down hipsters straight off Route 66 from New York; then old desert rats, carrying packs and heading for a park bench at the Plaza; then Methodist ministers with raveled sleeves, and an occasional Nature Boy saint in beard and sandals. I wanted to meet them all, talk to everybody, but Terry and I were too busy trying to get a buck together."

On the Road, Chapter 13

South Main Street, Los Angeles, California

Boy, is this a description of L.A. from the past! Nowadays we all have an image of Los Angeles. I bet you can think of a few of them from the top of your heads. Let's see: smog, traffic jams, movie and television stars, glamour, sunshine, beaches, parties, Academy Awards.

I have a confession to make. As I've said before, I'm a native Californian. I grew up in the northern half of the state, and as I've also said before in a previous post, the northern half of California has little love for the southern half of the state. So, in that spirit, I didn't truly visit Los Angeles until I was about 40 years old, and that was only because I went to a wedding.

Yet to fully understand all of California, you have to understand all of its parts. I'm still learning. I've now been in the L.A. area twice, and only for a short time. I wish that I had seen the L.A. that Sal describes. This L.A. sounds vibrant, interesting and condensed, like a city should be.

I suppose I should describe a little of what he saw, this carnival he writes of. Bop, of course, is the popular jazz of the day, the sounds of which permeates the the city. In the late 40s and early 50s, bop was the music that the most cutting edge people listened to. Hassel was the name Kerouac used as a pseudonym in On the Road for Herbert Huncke, who impressed Kerouac with his free-will choice to live off the streets by a life of petty crime. Hipsters were the counter-cultural crowd of the time, Jack's spiritual and ideological contemporaries, who loved jazz, experimented with drugs and had their own slang. They are somewhat distinct from what we now refer to as "hipsters." Desert rats were people who lived in rural (deserty) areas of the southwest U.S. Nature Boys were followers of the lifestyle espoused by Robert "Gypsy Boots" Bootzin, who was one of the earliest proponents of an organic lifestyle, including veganism, yoga, organics, and may have opened the first health food store in the world.

This melange of characters seem to be all located in one centralized location, which does not fit the images that most people, or at least I, have of L.A. Los Angeles seems to be very spread out and to not encourage this centralization. Perhaps back in the 40s, L.A. had a more big city feel to it, perhaps more of a grittiness and melting pot feel than today. I wonder if South Main Street is still like he describes, or if the character of it has changed or moved somewhere else in the city? Regardless, L.A. has become a destination that I would travel to again, based on my limited experience, because in places it is beautiful, there are still interesting people to watch and meet, and there are attractions that fit my definition of interesting.

If you want to learn more about South Main Street, Los Angeles, Nature Boys, Herbert Huncke and hipsters. Don't worry, we'll get to jazz and bop soon.

Beat Museum: Herbert Huncke
Gypsy Boots' Homepage
Herbert Huncke interview
Making a Life in South Los Angeles
The Morning News: Do You have Hipsters
Wikipedia: Herbert Huncke
Wikipedia: Hipsters in the 1940s
Wikipedia: Hipsters (contemporary)
Wikipedia: Robert "Gypsy Boots" Bootzin
Wikipedia: South Los Angeles

Next up: Sunset and Vine, Los Angeles, California